New Pattern: Clafouti

Clafouti, published in Knitty, Spring + Summer 2018. 

Knitty is celebrating their 15 year anniversary–an amazing number for a digital publication. To celebrate, Knitty asked designers to create new designs taking inspiration from their past issues. 

A long time ago, while looking around online for some help with a knitting pattern, I stumbled upon Knitty. This was the dark ages of the Internet for knitting, before Ravelry or YouTube or even Facebook. Through Knitty I found the instruction I was looking for and so much more. At that time there was the Knitty Coffeeshop, which became my first online community — there were so many members, it was so informational, and so much fun.

Every season there was (and still is!) a new Knitty issue with many wonderful new patterns. Most especially, there was Clapotis by Kate Gilbert. One of the most famous Knitty patterns, for a long time it was the design with the most projects on Ravelry—and still is in the top 5. I’ve never tired of the delight of knitting on the bias and dropping stitches to watch them run. Clafoutis (a delicious baked cherry dessert) has been inspired by, and borrows from, Clapotis. Meant to be a light layer that looks great over a tank top or a long sleeve shirt. Created with a hand painted yarn, like the original. Clafoutis is a swingy, easy layer, knit top down, with panels of Clapotis worked separately and attached in place.

So happy fifteenth, Knitty! My how you’ve grown. Here’s to many more issues of beauty, humor and inspiration. Congratulations.

Modeled by the lovely and talented, Emily Langtiw. Check out her cheery and insightful blog at

For women’s garments: XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
Shown in size XS with 0 inches/0 cm of positive ease

Chest/Bust: 34[36, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66] inches/ 86.5[91.5, 96.5, 107, 117, 127, 137.5, 147.5, 157.5, 168] cm
Length: 21.25[21.75, 22.25, 23.5, 24.7, 26, 27.25, 28.5, 29.75, 31] inches/ 54[55.5, 56.5, 60, 63, 66, 69.5, 72.5, 76, 79] cm

Claudia Hand Painted Yarns Drama [100% Linen; 270 yds per 100 g skein]; color: Lipstick; 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] skeins

1 US #4/3.5mm circular needle, 32 to 40 inches/80 to 100 cm long
1 US #4/3.5mm circular needle, 16 inches/40 cm long

24 sts/32 rows/rnds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch

Link to free pattern

New Pattern: Coastal Stripes Pullover

I’ve been lucky enough to receive a commission from Red Heart North America. This super easy and simple pullover was fun to create. It would make a great first sweater. And it’s a free pattern!

For women’s garments: XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size S

To Fit Bust: 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52)” [71 (81, 91.5, 101.5, 111.5, 122, 132) cm]
Finished Bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58)” [86 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147) cm]

RED HEART® With Love®:1 skein each 1101 Eggshell A, 1502 Iced Aqua B, 1711 Cameo C, and 1308 Tan D.

1 US #10/6mm needle

15 sts = 4” [10 cm]; 24 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st.

Link to free pattern

New Pattern: About Lace

So excited to say that Knitty has published another of my patterns: About Lace.

Finding the line between what I find interesting and enjoyable to knit and what I actually want to wear isn’t easy. I love to knit bright colors but I like to wear black. I love to knit more complicated things but I like to wear simple shapes. Allover lace is great because it’s fun, especially an easy lace pattern like this one. I love this lace pattern because it works as lovely texture with flattering strong vertical lines. And since the shape is simple and classic, it is flattering to wear.

Worked from the bottom up, this sweater is virtually seamless, with the sleeves picked up and knit in the round and the shoulders completed with a 3-needle bind off. The collar is picked up last and worked in the round. The stitches for the sleeves are picked up from the finished body and knit in the round to the cuff making such a pretty finish at the shoulders. Bracelet length sleeves, worked in stockinette, become a backdrop to the lace texture and are just the right warmth for cool fall days.

The lace pattern looks complicated, but I promise that it is an easy repeat and really fun to knit. So much fun, that honestly, I think mine might be a little cuter on me if I had done one less repeat to make it a little shorter. The Eyelet Arch Lace Pattern is both written out and charted.

You can use your own techniques, but I used a new to me Tubular Cast On and Tubular Bind Off techniques–totally worth learning. The pattern has links to instructional videos, which I found really useful. The Tubular techniques produce this lovely rounded and stretchy edge that I love so much.

Blocking lace is very important to stretch the garment out to be just the width you’d like it–use the dimensions from the pattern as your guide (bad photo with harsh winter light, but I think you get the idea). I’ve never invested in a blocking board–I use form core and quilter’s pins (be sure your pins are rustproof!).

For the yarn I’ve used Louet Gems Fine/Sport Weight. I love this yarn so much–100% wool, super wash, modestly priced and comes in so many great colors, both bright and neutrals. 

New pattern! Maryjane

Published in the Spring/Summer 2017 Knitty

Lots of people slow their knitting in summer. Not me. Warm weather is the time to try out great alternatives to wool and see what they’re like. Ever since I picked up a hank of hemp, I’ve been looking forward to trying this fiber. Hemp is funky, a little bit twiney and stiff when knitting, but the finished fabric is wonderful. Similar in texture to linen, the drape is dreamy and makes a cool fabric on a hot day.

Yup, hemp is the same plant as marijuana—but fiber farmers only use certified low-THC (the psychoactive component) varieties of the plant. For thousands of years hemp was used to make products like paper, rope, canvas, and textiles. Hemp is so old, it’s new again.

Like most of my designs, this top began as something created to fill a need in my wardrobe: an interesting summer top. By interesting, I mean one that is not a black t-shirt, which seems to be all I wore last summer.

At the same time I realized that I had these hanks of AllHemp6 that landed in my stash from an impulse purchase. You know the kind of shopping: I was in the wonderful Churchmouse Yarns and Teas and saw the hemp that I had wanted to explore for so long and impulsively grabbed a few hanks of colors that made me happy. When I got home I had no idea what I was going to do with them.

After I knit a swatch of two different striping patterns and asked my best pal, Ellen, which stripes she liked better, she said, “use both!” So that’s how I began.

The top uses two different stripe patterns: Thin Stripes alternate between Blue and Orange; Wide Stripe repeat is Blue, Tan, Orange, Tan. AllHemp6 comes in a wide palette of great colors, anyone could have a great time making their own selections.

I know that stripes are not considered the most flattering, most especially on women “of a certain size” (me) but I can’t help designing with them — they are so much fun to knit! However I know that Maryjane would also look great in a single color.

I am wearing Maryjane with 2 inches of positive ease (above). My lovely girl Tamara is wearing the very same with 5.5 inches of positive ease (below).

This simple A-line structure make this very flexible in sizing, and since it’s knit top down, its easy to fit as you work by trying it on as you go.

Here are a few more tips for best success with Maryjane.

• Hemp is a bit twine-like and splitty, but so worth it in its drapey and funky fabric. Really unique and interesting. And softens each time you wash it.
• Cakes from a ball winder won’t hold together while you’re knitting, the fiber is too smooth to cling — wind the cake into a ball by hand.
• Fun fact: two of the hanks I used did not have a start/end, they were knotted in one big loop! Just cut the knot to begin to ball up the yarn.
• I used braided joins to create a good looking join and I believe will hold better than weaving in the ends because of that smooth fiber quality.
• Try the top on a few rows after you’ve joined the body and see what you think.
• I like to use a ribbon instead of waste yarn for trying on the top as well as holding the sleeve stitches. Ribbons keep the stitches more open and they slide nicely around the needle.
• Don’t even think about cutting the colors as you work! Just twist colors around each other as you go. I didn’t do any kind of jogless color striping, I just switched colors.

If you haven’t knit a top down raglan before, you’re in for a treat. So easy, so fun! You start with a circle, place markers to delineate the front, the sleeves, and the back. Then you’ll work a little short row shaping for the back of the neck. Next you’ll be making increases around each marker to grow those four different sections. When you’ve done your increasing, you’ll continue by putting the sleeve sections on holders and knit all stitches to join the front to the back. Then keep knitting down to the bottom edge adding a few increases at each side to make the A-line shape. At any time, pop the top on a ribbon and try it on! After the body is done, you’ll put each sleeve on a needle and knit those in the round for just a few rows. Quick and easy. I hope you try it!

Link to free pattern

New pattern: Variations on Chart 429 in Knitty!

A slighty odd name, right? But Knitty liked it anyway and it’s up with the new Winter 2016 issue. Hooray! I’ve loved Knitty my entire knitting career, and I’m so glad they like my work too. This pattern really helped me to grow as a designer and pattern maker—I do think of it as my masterpiece.

As I wrote for the pattern notes, this sweater began as an experiment: could I create a sweater with an all over pattern in stranded colorwork, which I love, without steeking, which I do not?

Skipping the steeking means that I could choose this soft and delicious yarn, in a fiber that is springy enough to make all the stitches look great and comes in so many wonderful colors. Gems is aptly named—it is a gem of a fiber.

The quest began when I discovered some great geometric patterns in the pages of an old book. I’m not sure what they were meant to be, the book is incomplete and written in a language that I don’t read, but I fell in love with the strong graphic quality of those old charts.

To make the project a bit easier—I chose a design (no. 429) that did not require much float trapping. I also created a smaller variation of that pattern that would be tolerable to purl on the reverse side. An extra bonus is that it’s easy to memorize.


So I’ve got some helpful hints—that will hopefully show how uncomplicated this pattern really is. And thanks to the most excellent tech editor, Ashley, it will also be a whole lot of fun.

I meant the design to be a bit oversized. On me, in the photos, it looks rather fitted. So I must come clean and tell you that I started Weight Watcher’s at about the same time that I started designing and knitting the sweater. I was overly optimistic about the speed of my weight loss goals. On the Plus Side (see what I did there?), know that the range of sizes is extensive enough so that the knitter can choose a size with lots or little ease, and it will look great. Dropped shoulders also make it easier to fit and knit.

There was also the small matter of a broken finger which completely derailed my summer gardening and cycling. And knitting. Ouch!


Yarn choice
I can’t recommend Louet Gems Fine/Sport Weight enough. The yarn needs to be nice and springy and I’ll always go for a fiber this soft. This yarn is also superwash, though to be honest, I rarely put my hand knits in the washing machine, but its nice to know that the finished garment will not felt or shrink. Gems comes in so many color combinations. I also considered these colors and think there are at least a million more.


How to Work Stranded Knitting (a.k.a. Fair Isle)
I could write about this all day—but a little YouTube and blog searches will explain and demonstrate it much better. I carry a color in each hand, using the background color in my right hand (throwing it English style), and the foreground color in my left hand (picking it Continental style). But there are also these great little yarn guides to try. Look it up and try the different methods when you swatch.

That’s right. Do a swatch. You won’t be sorry. Swatchless knitters—whether feckless or crazy optimistic, that’s where choosing the right size to knit can go all to wrong. Knitting without a swatch is a trapeze act without a net!

When you work Stranded Knitting, the colors that are not being used “float” behind the stitches that are in play. Those strands are called floats. If they travel too far or get too tight, they can get ungainly and pull in your work, so you must trap them to keep them shorter. At this gauge, if a color was more than 5 stitches in a row, I trapped the other color. Again, an internet search is so very helpful.

Working Stranded Knitting on the Wrong Side
Not too hard and I’ve kept the pattern complications to a minimum. Purl instead of knit—it’s really that easy.

I do hope you try this pattern–do let me know if you have any questions or comments, I would love to hear!